 Expert Review |  | | | | |
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I am not a fan of big ships and have spent a good portion of my cruising life avoiding them, but when the opportunity arose for me to join a group heading for an around-the-Horn cruise from Buenos Aires to Santiago on Celebrity's Millennium, I jumped at the chance. "It's too big," I thought to myself, "but no matter, I'll just make the best of it." Little did I realize that this experience, replete with sea days between each port of call, would wow me and win me over. Have I suddenly become a fan of big-ship sailing? No, but I am smitten with Millennium, and after six at-sea days exploring the vessel, discovering hidden charms and quirks, I am head-over-heels. When Millennium made its debut in 2000, it brought a new era of cruising to Celebrity. The first of its class -- and built after Celebrity Cruises was acquired by Royal Caribbean International -- the ship was followed by Infinity, Summit and Constellation. Millennium made news by incorporating, among other things, the first gas propulsion system on a cruise ship (thus the label GTS -- Gas Turbine Ship -- Millennium rather than MS, for Motor Ship). The GTS system is unique in that it reduces emissions and burns cleaner, creates less noise and vibration, and allows the ship to reach speeds of up to 24 knots. (It is not, alas, as fuel-efficient as was hoped at the time it was designed.) It was also the first ship to use exterior elevators, a feature that has been adopted ever since by several cruise lines. The ship also had, until recently, a unique music-listening venue called Notes (since converted to Acupuncture at Sea, also an innovation). The ship is ... pretty. That's not a word that I use very often, especially when discussing a sea-going vessel, but it's the simplest and most accurate word to describe Millennium. The soft hues and stately public spaces; the tortoise-shell onyx stairway at the center of the ship; the diverse art around every turn; the stunning space in the Cosmos Lounge with its wrap-around floor-to-ceiling windows, contemporary design, glittery dance floor, Art Deco-style lighting system, and light woods; the clubby, homey feeling of Michael's Club; and the contemporary-mixed-with-Deco design of the Metropolitan Restaurant offer an eclectic experience, but all of it is soft ... and pretty. I never thought that I would feel so at home on a ship this large; at 91,000 tons it carries 1,950 passengers. It is far from the largest ship at sea, but it's definitely big. Somehow, though, the feeling of an intimate experience prevails. The layout and accessibility are excellent, with 14 elevators and a design that makes getting from one point of interest to another easy and enjoyable. Lots of outside deck space and promenades help in this regard as well. One thing I learned on this voyage is that as Celebrity continues to grow and build larger ships (a new class of ship, Solstice, is on the drawing board now, with an anticipated 3,000-passenger capacity and at 118,000 tons a really big ship), I won't be concerned about sailing on Millennium, which by then will be considered one of the line's "smaller" ships. In fact, I'll be delighted. | | |  top | | | | Dining
All of the food selections, from the always-available pizza and pasta to the delectable savories in the Olympic Restaurant, were top-of-the-line wonderful, prepared to perfection, beautifully presented, and served with a smile and a flourish. Although there is only one "alternative" restaurant, Millennium essentially has four dining spots -- five, if you count the casual restaurant located at the aft port side of the Ocean Grill in the evenings. The Metropolitan, Millennium's main restaurant, is a two-deck-high room located at the aft of the ship, with the entire back wall being glass. When it isn't yet dark out, the views from almost anywhere in the restaurant are stunning. And when darkness falls, Millennium uses a series of drop-down screens to hide the windows and the glare from the inside lighting. Two things stand out about the Metropolitan dining room: The decor, a mix of contemporary and Art Deco, is lovely and elegant, setting the stage for the equally elegant dining experience, and, although it's a large space, it's been designed in a way that makes it quiet enough to actually enjoy conversation. In fact, I was seated at a large table in the middle of the lower level, probably my least favorite spot in any dining venue because of noise and activity, yet I was able to speak to and actually hear my dining companions. Menu options run the gamut from chi-chi French-inspired cuisine, such as filet mignon with foie gras and bleu cheese topping and escargots, to more plebian roast chicken and grilled fish. Service in the main restaurant is excellent and traditional. There are two seatings for dinner; breakfast and lunch are both available here with open seating. Unique to Celebrity's Millennium-class ships is the Spa Cafe, located in the AquaSpa and serving light healthy meals in a cafe surrounding the thalassotherapy pool. Salads, grilled chicken breast, fresh fruit and vegetables are available all day until 8 p.m. Just before entry to the Resort Deck's massive cafeteria-style restaurant, the Ocean Grill, just aft of the main pool, is the Riviera Grill, serving hamburgers, hot dogs and at least one daily special (i.e. ribs, fajitas, grilled breast of chicken). It's a perfect spot to grab a bite while enjoying the pool deck. The Ocean Grill has something available nearly 24 hours of the day. Pizza and pasta are freshly made; you can choose your own ingredients. From 6:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. the aft end, a sandwich station during the day, becomes a sushi bar with a range of items from California roll to tekka maki. Ginger, wasabi and soy sauce are all available too. On the port side of the Ocean Grill, between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m., is the alternative casual dining option, which has table service and offers regional specialties or a selection from the dining room menu. A suggested gratuity of $2 per person is recommended. A note: No one was ever presented with a bill, so try to have a couple of ones with you when you go, and tip in cash. The creme de la creme of dining spots on Millennium, though, is the exquisite Olympic Restaurant, the ship's sole for-charge alternative restaurant. Unlike most ship specialty dining venues, the Olympic doesn't have a fixed rate but rather one determined by your menu selections. Adorned with original panels from the MS Olympic, sister ship to the Titanic, the atmosphere and presentation is as magnificent as the cuisine. I'm usually too impatient to enjoy the pomp and circumstance of this kind of atmosphere, but the well-trained teams in the Olympic made it showy and fun. The menu, which doesn't change, is wonderful, very French, and offers selections for every type of diner. The most commonly ordered entree is the melt-in-the-mouth filet mignon, preceded by a prepared-at-the-table Caesar salad, so garlicky that you'd better hope that all of your dinner companions get one too. The dessert platter, with small portions of pastry, creme brulee, cake and tiramisu was so beautiful that it was a shame to eat it -- but we did, with gusto. Note: The Caesars are made traditionally with one exception: Raw eggs are not included for health reasons. Room service is available 24/7; guests can order selections from the menu during dinner, and a door-hung card assures you'll get breakfast when ordered. I love the fact that they phone before delivery; breakfast and an alarm! Tipping for room service is customary and greatly appreciated. | | | | top | | | | Public Rooms
From bow to stern, the public areas on this ship offer both surprises and charm, whether it's the unique (and often unexpected) modern art around every corner, the wow factor when entering Cosmos for the first time, or the clubby, calming surroundings in Michael's Club. This is one classy vessel. The decor is an eclectic mix of contemporary, Old World, Art Deco and resort chic, which could, if done poorly, create a schizophrenic ambience. But that's not the case here; everything fits and flows smoothly from one venue to another, and the most impressive attribute is the use of natural light whenever possible. Cosmos, the forward-facing lounge at the top of the ship, is surrounded with floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides. It's used during the day as an observation station and for various activities, and at night it's turned into a fabulous disco/dance hall. Just outside its doors is the Conservatory, a flower shop that doubles as a Zen-like respite from all the hoopla on the rest of the ship. Unfortunately, it's open only during the florist's hours and I had to seek my Zen elsewhere. No worries, there are plenty of spots for that as well, including Words, the ship's two-story library, with its spiral staircase, glass walls and deep armchairs. Seeking calm solitude is one thing, but anyone looking for some excitement and camaraderie can easily find it in the Rendezvous Lounge, lined with windows opening onto the promenade, which is great during the day. In the evenings, people actually dance on the center wood floor, and sing karaoke until the wee hours. Both the Martini Bar and the Champagne Bar, located on the Entertainment Deck, make for great pre-dinner cocktail spots. My favorite has to be the Cova Cafe di Milano, midship surrounding the Grand Foyer one floor below. A coffee and wine bar, it's designed to replicate the Italian original. Most nights the entertainment alternates between a soothing classical quartet and a pianist, but on my South America cruise we enjoyed a Spanish guitarist who really set the tone for our environment. Forward of the Cova Cafe is Millennium's enormous shopping venue, the Emporium. Along with the usual logo shops and duty-free, there are several jewelry and watch shops, and, instead of cluttering the aisles with specials as on most ships, there is a circular central kiosk area for the daily discount offerings. The Celebrity Theater at the very front of the ship has comfortable banquette seating and excellent, non-obstructed views. There are also several meeting rooms, a movie theater which can double as a meeting/presentation venue, and the Internet Center and Computer Lab. On the Sports Deck at the very top of the ship is Extreme, the sports bar, and overlooking the pool on the Sunrise Deck is Mast -- perfect for a cool one on a hot day. | | | | top | | | | Cabins
Of the 1,059 staterooms aboard Millennium, 853 are oceanview, and 538 of those have balconies. The ship also offers 50 suites, ranging from the uber-luxe penthouses (at 1,690 square ft., they are bigger than my house) to the more petite but elegant Sky Suites, as well as 26 accommodations that are fully ADA-compliant and wheelchair accessible. Millennium's standard staterooms, from the least expensive insides to outside balcony cabins, are beautifully configured, nicely decorated with soft hues, elegant furnishings, those cute rounded-end beds and comfortable seating options. They serve as oases of calm away from all other ship activities. Standard cabins come in at around 170 square ft. (some insides are a bit smaller). Balconies add an average of 41 square ft. They are certainly not the largest staterooms afloat, to be sure, but the way these are configured and the calmness of the decor make them wholly appealing. I was in one of Millennium's "Concierge" staterooms, about a foot longer than the standard staterooms down the hall. Other than a few extra perquisites (a real hair dryer, teeny-weeny bites of hors d'oeuvres in the afternoon, a bottle of wine and fresh fruit waiting for me on boarding, binoculars, and the services of a concierge whenever I needed them), the only real difference in the cabin itself was that the sofa was a bit longer. The stateroom decor is of light woods and cool pastels, with added luxuries like little throw pillows on the sofa. Storage space is more than adequate for two people for a longer cruise, with several closets for hanging clothing, small shelves next to the desk/vanity for books and other items, and two large cupboards under it. The only drawers are in the nightstands, which also have lamps attached to the top. I really like having that side night table light rather than the one that's affixed to the wall overhead, but in some staterooms, the bedside lamps keep you from putting "stuff" on the tables. Happily, that is not the case here; the lamps were tall enough to stack books and lotions and other bedtime things on the stand. The bathroom is large and very well lit, with plenty of storage space for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Standard accommodations and concierge-level cabins have a roomy shower, while suites have whirlpool baths. There is a wall-mounted hair dryer in the standard cabins; concierge-level and suite guests get handheld dryers, but there is no outlet for them in the bathrooms. You have to use them at the desk/vanity area, which is kind of a pain if you aren't using that area for grooming. There are two 110-volt outlets and two 220-volt outlets at the desk. I brought my converter kit with me, converting one of the 220 to 110, so had three outlets to use for sundry electronics including my laptop, digital camera, battery recharger and occasionally the hair dryer. The balconies in standard verandah staterooms and most concierge-level staterooms are comfortably large and nicely furnished with strapped chairs and small tables; concierge-level balcony furniture has canvas pad covers, and suite guests get a mix of mesh and wooden furniture. Millennium's "Resort Deck" has an inordinately large overhang toward the forward part of the ship, and a series of angled overhangs toward the aft. They are so big that the ship was built with a row of stanchions that angle down from the overhangs. Rooms at the top level under the Resort Deck, therefore, get interrupted views and very little sun. I was in one of those rooms, and although I loved it in almost all respects, I would have preferred more sun and less interference with my vista. Also, while soundproofing is excellent from room to room, this is not the case with the ceilings, and being right under the Resort Deck can make for a very noisy trip. All standard staterooms come equipped with a mini-bar fridge (check prices before using the goodies), a safe, a telephone, and interactive television with excellent programming including CNN, ESPN, several movie channels, several in-house channels and TBS. The "interactive" part includes ordering room service (it works really well!), checking your daily bill balance, and playing video slots and blackjack (for those who are really bored and need to spend money gambling on a television). Trivia Tidbit: On my South America cruise, many of the televisions were not working well, especially in outside cabins. Mine was particularly frustrating since the only colors I could get were a hot fuchsia pink and a vivid lime green, even after the engineering staff switched it for me with one that worked perfectly in an unoccupied interior cabin. It turns out that standard (non-LCD) televisions made for the Northern Hemisphere don't work correctly with the magnetic fields of the Southern Hemisphere. (The flat-screen televisions in the public spaces didn't have this problem.) I became so accustomed to seeing Anderson Cooper and Larry King with green faces and pink teeth that it was almost anticlimactic to see them in their natural state upon my arrival home. | | | | top | | | | Entertainment
Most of the shows in the Celebrity Theater are typical cruise fare (this ship doesn't have a Cirque de Soleil onboard) with a live orchestra and "The Celebrity Singers and Dancers." On our South America trip, however, we did have several evening entertainment "events" that were related to our destinations. There were tango lessons and demonstrations, a folkloric troupe brought onboard to entertain with dances and customs of Argentina, and the movies "March of the Penguins" and "The Motorcycle Diaries" were shown in the movie theater. The cruise I was on had six sea days, interspersed with active and busy days ashore. The days at sea provided opportunities to rest and to participate in the onboard activities; during the day there are dance lessons (salsa, tango and merengue were unique to this destination, but there was also line, swing and ballroom). Trivia contests, Pictionary, brain teasers and charades, napkin folding, and arts and crafts classes were all well attended, bested in participation only by the nightly karaoke. Celebrity Cruises' fantastic Discover Enrichment Series was not only welcome on the South America itinerary, it was also an incredible adjunct to an already wonderful experience. The knowledgeable historian provided facts and figures about the region that were fascinating (although often irritatingly prefaced with "...as I explained in my latest book..."). The naturalist, a young fellow whose love of his work is apparent in everything he does, brought the most insight to the trip, explaining the flora and fauna of each of the regions we visited, naming the birds and mammals we were seeing and pointing out those we might have missed. His descriptions of the glaciers we viewed were so awe-inspiring it was as though we were the first people ever to have seen them. He (and his lectures) was the talk of the ship. Everyone seemed to be enamored by his gentle descriptions and love of the region. The Discover Enrichment series also includes computer classes taught by the onboard vendor, Celebrity@Sea. Some of the classes were complimentary; most had a fee of $20. Members of the group I was with were appreciative of their newly acquired skills and anxious to get home to try their hand at Photoshop in the privacy of their own dens. The computer center offers online service at what I would consider a very high rate: $0.75 per minute, brought down to $0.70 if you buy 100 minutes for $70. This rate applies to both the desktops in the Internet center and to your own laptops when accessing the onboard wireless system. I used the latter, and even though I was told it wouldn't work, I actually had wireless connectivity in my stateroom most of the time, and on my balcony at other times. Two things made me less fussy about the cost of the service: It worked, almost always, even when surrounded by the mountains of southern Argentina and Chile and going around Cape Horn, and when there was a problem, my account was credited generously, with no question whatsoever. Those two issues alone, of course, make the expensive service ... priceless. My friends and I were particularly taken with the classical guitarist who played several times a day in the Cova Cafe di Milano; the contemporary pianist; the Coco Band (who are the "house" rockers); and the hunky guys in Sustained, brought onboard for half the trip. On one of our sea days, the executive chef and the head pastry chef got into a "cook-off" of sorts. It was educational, but it was mostly funny. They work well together, and have obviously performed this routine several times. The casino, located midship, seems impossibly small for a vessel of this size, and although the tables were busy most evenings, the slots -- older and pretty boring -- didn't get much use. Everything seemed to be jammed together and it got really hot in the room during my cruise. Naturally, there are bingo sessions and art auctions just about every day, and specialty wine auctions too. | | | | top | | | | Fitness and Recreation
Unlike the spa areas on many ships, with a fitness room and treatment rooms hidden behind some New Age-y doors and tables draped with batik fabrics, Millennium's AquaSpa is practically a destination of its own. It takes up a large portion of the Resort Deck, forward of the main pool, and includes the Spa Cafe, the thalassotherapy pool (free of charge on this ship), comfy seating areas, the spa service and treatment areas, a beauty shop, a steam and sauna room called the Persian Garden (fee for use), and a forward-facing gymnasium and fitness center that is so appealing it almost got me on one of the treadmills. Note: The Persian Garden is coed, as one of my companions unfortunately discovered upon emerging from her eucalyptus-scented shower wearing nothing but ... nothing. The AquaSpa area is for adults only, and happily, this seemed to be enforced. The two hot tubs and the steamy thalassotherapy pool were child-free during the length of my two-week voyage. However, kids have the use of the Riviera main pool, which is located on the Resort Deck with two hot tubs, divided into a shallow end for dipping and a deeper end for swimming. Anyone who wants to swim laps can do so early in the morning before the pools get busy. There is a jogging track and golf simulator one deck up on the Sunrise Deck, and a basketball court on the Sports Deck at the top of the ship. Classes in Pilates and yoga are offered with an additional fee of $10, but some of the best workouts are to be found at the dance classes offered free of charge. Spa services at the Steiner of London-operated facility include facials, massages, wraps and scrubs, with specials offered on shore days. I always look for Steiner's "Frangipani" treatment, a scalp, neck and shoulder massage which, at $29, is the best value onboard. | | | | top | | | | Family
The well-equipped, bright and cheerful Ship Mates Fun Factory is located at the aft of the Sunrise Deck, and although it has programs for kids aged 3 to 17, there isn't much for teens except the video game room adjacent. Celebrity offers "The X-Club," an umbrella program designed for families. Participation is complimentary, even on port days, and is broken nicely into compatible age groups. Potty-trained children are welcomed from age 3 and join the Ship's Mates (3- to 6-year-olds). Cadets (7 - 9), Ensigns (10 - 12) and Admirals (13 - 17) make up the balance of the groups, with age-appropriate activities for each, and trained counselors in attendance. There are also family-centric activities like karaoke, bingo and pizza parties. Parents with children younger than 3 are invited to accompany their toddlers into the playrooms. | | | | top | | | | Fellow Passengers
Millennium guests tend to be sophisticated, well-traveled adults in the 45 - 65 age range, and indeed, the Celebrity experience is ideal for the "baby boom" generation. Although there are several activities for families, Millennium's longer cruises pretty much assure that the crowd will be fairly sedate and senior. Most of the guests are North American, with Britain and other European countries represented. On the South American cruises, which take place during that continent's summer season, expect to find a lively mix of Argentineans, Chileans and Brazilians. | | | | top | | | | Dress Code
Depending on the destination, the dress is usually casual during the day and resort casual in the evening. On trans-Atlantic voyages, guests tend to be dressier, even during the day. Celebrity is a traditional cruise line and the typical Millennium guest likes the traditions of dressing up for supper. Plan on two formal nights on a seven-night cruise, and three on a 10- to 14-night cruise, with several "informal" evenings as well. Formal nights on my cruise found most of the ladies in beaded or flowing gowns and men in tuxes; on informal evenings, women wore cocktail attire and men wore suits with ties. There are casual dining options for those who choose not to dress up on formal nights, including the ever-present pizza and pasta, the sushi bar, and the dining option on the port side of the Ocean Cafe and Grill. | | | | top | | | | Gratuity
Millennium's gratuities are collected the old-fashioned way, with envelopes distributed for doling out by the guest on the last evening aboard (although you can have the recommended amounts charged to your shipboard account). The "recommended" amounts are fairly standard ($3.50 per day for the room steward and waiter, $2 per day for their assistants) and there is also an envelope for the "assistant head housekeeper" with a recommended tip amount of $0.50 per day. On this ship, the assistant head housekeeper was very visible and made sure that all guests were getting what they needed. The passenger services crew works so hard, and is so friendly and accommodating, that we had no problem tipping well above the recommended amounts. --by Cruise Critic contributor Jana Jones, who has also written for a variety of publications, including Vacation Agent, UK's Travel Holidays and Ocean Drive Magazine. | | | | top | | | | | Expert reviews are provided by CruiseCritic.com, an award-winning cruise community. This objective information can help you choose just the right ship for your next cruise vacation. | |  | |
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